Paris Day 4 (19 July)
Another new place visited today - Promenade Plantee. It is France's version of New York's High Line - an elevated walkway of greenery along an abandoned 19th century railway and viaducts. We walked from Bastille to Jardin de Reilly. It's some 10 meters above the street in the 12th arrondisement. Very pretty with quite a variety of plants plus the added bonus of being higher up, providing a different perspective to the buildings either side. The older buildings are so ornate, is very difficult not to keep snapping away. Fair number of people strolling up and down along with the compulsory joggers. The Jardin de Reilly has quite a large patch of grass, so imagine is very popular on weekends.
Then wandered down to view what is called the Viaduc des Arts - 45 brick archways under the 'highline' converted into artisan showrooms - from violin-makers to jewellers to furniture etc. Interesting use of the space.
Forgot - before we went promenading we visited a street called Rue Cremieux which is towards the beginning of the promenade plantee. Mixed thoughts as to whether to visit it as had became one of those sights featured on Instagram - i.e. photographed to death and it is just a little street where people are trying to live etc. Well we did go but there are signs at each end of the street asking you not to photo or video it. So we didn't and it was actually pretty quiet so hopefully the social media mania has passed. It is just a very pretty pedestrian street with very colourful little workmens' cottages built in the mid-1800's. Tiny places about 1 room deep.
I am writing this blog backwards. We started the day with a visit to our local markets and bought some more delicious red (and yellow this time) tomatoes and nectarines from our current favourite street vendor along with fresh bread and some pate for our picnic lunch. Stephen attempted to pay for some of it with English pounds. A cunning plan that didn't work. Lunch after our walk was close to home in the Square Trousseau. Cute little park with rotunda in the middle, built in the early 1900's after the demolition of a 17th century hospital for abandoned children (Hospice des Enfants Trouves).
Retreated back to hotel around 2pm when temperature started to rise and went for a stroll late afternoon around some different streets in the 11th. "Different streets' is my technical term for if Stephen wasn't with me at the time goodness knows how I would have found the hotel again. Again many artisan type shops - lots of fun pottering around in them. Stephen just told me we found Rue de la Rocquette and that we had concluded we must go back to have a closer look at it. I have just nodded and do have some vague memory of the street. Dinner at yet another local restaurant. It is very much a foodie area. Stephen happy to find liver on the menu which he said was delicious with this impressive stack of thin layers of potatoes. I tried their steak tartare which I have never had before. Given I like my meat pretty rare was confident I'd like it which I did. We splurged and shared a slice of cheesecake. Place was humming as is Friday night. Lots of people in their 20's sitting out front sipping on wine and beer. They never seem to eat although I suspect they go out to drink and perhaps eat at home? Not sure as resident expert on 20 year olds' behaviour is not available for consultation.
Also have to record the many number of motorised scooters zipping around the place. Lime green rental scooters are everywhere now (along with the many bikes still pottering around these busy streets). Led to a discussion at dinner as to why Paris with its windy chaotic streets can accommodate bikes and now these scooters, whereas you take your life in your hands if you choose to ride a bike on the roads in Sydney. We had shared some wine while conducting this discussion so no useful conclusions were reached. News now predicting 40 degrees next. Think we will manage OK. French a bit worried about it.
Then wandered down to view what is called the Viaduc des Arts - 45 brick archways under the 'highline' converted into artisan showrooms - from violin-makers to jewellers to furniture etc. Interesting use of the space.
Forgot - before we went promenading we visited a street called Rue Cremieux which is towards the beginning of the promenade plantee. Mixed thoughts as to whether to visit it as had became one of those sights featured on Instagram - i.e. photographed to death and it is just a little street where people are trying to live etc. Well we did go but there are signs at each end of the street asking you not to photo or video it. So we didn't and it was actually pretty quiet so hopefully the social media mania has passed. It is just a very pretty pedestrian street with very colourful little workmens' cottages built in the mid-1800's. Tiny places about 1 room deep.
I am writing this blog backwards. We started the day with a visit to our local markets and bought some more delicious red (and yellow this time) tomatoes and nectarines from our current favourite street vendor along with fresh bread and some pate for our picnic lunch. Stephen attempted to pay for some of it with English pounds. A cunning plan that didn't work. Lunch after our walk was close to home in the Square Trousseau. Cute little park with rotunda in the middle, built in the early 1900's after the demolition of a 17th century hospital for abandoned children (Hospice des Enfants Trouves).
Retreated back to hotel around 2pm when temperature started to rise and went for a stroll late afternoon around some different streets in the 11th. "Different streets' is my technical term for if Stephen wasn't with me at the time goodness knows how I would have found the hotel again. Again many artisan type shops - lots of fun pottering around in them. Stephen just told me we found Rue de la Rocquette and that we had concluded we must go back to have a closer look at it. I have just nodded and do have some vague memory of the street. Dinner at yet another local restaurant. It is very much a foodie area. Stephen happy to find liver on the menu which he said was delicious with this impressive stack of thin layers of potatoes. I tried their steak tartare which I have never had before. Given I like my meat pretty rare was confident I'd like it which I did. We splurged and shared a slice of cheesecake. Place was humming as is Friday night. Lots of people in their 20's sitting out front sipping on wine and beer. They never seem to eat although I suspect they go out to drink and perhaps eat at home? Not sure as resident expert on 20 year olds' behaviour is not available for consultation.
Also have to record the many number of motorised scooters zipping around the place. Lime green rental scooters are everywhere now (along with the many bikes still pottering around these busy streets). Led to a discussion at dinner as to why Paris with its windy chaotic streets can accommodate bikes and now these scooters, whereas you take your life in your hands if you choose to ride a bike on the roads in Sydney. We had shared some wine while conducting this discussion so no useful conclusions were reached. News now predicting 40 degrees next. Think we will manage OK. French a bit worried about it.
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